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Chess Code

Part One: Chess as a science
Part Two: Winning with White and Black


Chess is a game of symbols, math and imagination. Without those skills, you couldnt rank high in this game. Many have obligated their lives for this game because large majority of its inherents want to become the ultimate player in the world. Chessmasters, such as Fischer went mad because chess drains a lot of brain energy and concertation power from our mind. I know that you picked up this book because you have a dream, a twilight but real dream of becoming the best chess player there is. In order to “refute” chess, professionals say, we'd need better machines that count away all the moves and information needed to win big. So to refute the game we should 1) find an system of its own to 2) force the win that the enemy player would have to back him up with lesser game, play and moves.

You want to win. And win fast and all the time. I am just a club player whose chess playing is his hobby, sometimes at club nights a lot of work. I dont win all the time and I dont pretend to know how. But if your skill is high, this book should open your eyes and thematically force wins from most games, both low and high levels. I believe in common sense and straightforwarded assault against the enemy lines. I am suggesting in this short observation you to centralize your rooks to d and e files, fianchetto both ( or other) of your bishops, drive your knights away from the front line and the ripe prize hanging up in the air would be your enemys queen!

In the first part of this book I will tell you how I think everyone should play chess; use common sense and unhingly blaster out by pure melee attacks. There is no higher force behind; the basic idea is to centralize your pieces and attack with sharp and nasty moves. In the second part I will give you whole new theory for you to use and you should master it and get excited with your backing power. Ive created new moves and ideas that have not been published before now. Ive created new moves and plans using pure imagination and experience. With my help, you can win and master full games based on my new chess theory. You will get to know the main plans and moves so that you can win big in your tournaments or chess nights! With my new moves and ideas, you can easily defeat a strong player playing Black in the open games! But now, lets get started.

Chapter One:
Tactics, strategy and other ideas

Unlike most players expect, chess is not about arrogant and chivalry tactical combinations, but rather just a mere strategy game. Yes, playing against weak players or blizt games you can get away with just piling enemy units down like a machinegunner in eastern Karelia. Its fun to be one tempo ahead with White or attack with simple tactical shots if youve got the upper hand. But this shouldnt be your only winning move. I believe that there are certain moves in chess that mean more than just common a2- 4 or h2- h4 kamikaze tryouts. There are some right positions for rooks, bishops, queen and knights. And in order to figure that up, you'll need a strategical stand point to the game chess.

Best strategial campaigns include centralization; I.e rooks to D and E files. With the rook in their prime spots, you can gun down most of the enemy activity. And knights are pretty useless in strategy, because they are too fickle and unclear units. Dont waste your bishop by trading it to an enemy knight early in the game. Two bishops are a lot more powerful in the end game than the flawky knights. Always look forward to save both of your rooks and bishops for the endgame where they have more value, because in the opening and middle game there are just so many pieces that these pieces arent so powerful. Always value bishops over knights. The knights are just grown up pawns: just as a meaningless prize you value but dont use.

Chess, in its purest and authentic form, is not some quicky pleasure between the lunch break; but in the high level a seriously taken strategy game which asks for long term plans and positional superiority. A position so powerful that can control the game all out- is the core of refuting chess. Positional players have a bad tendency to avoid exchanges so that they wouldnt “ruin” the beautiful position which was just created. But there is a position of its own which is better than others and which matter all in the world in winning games at the top level or without the chessclock. Chessclock, a useless invention. With the idea of limiting the move choices and fasten the game space, is ruining modern chess today. In this fast paced quick pleasure run- off the mill world everything should be there right away the dish should be ready even before the pig was born.

Best chess players dont use clocks; the imagination in us isnt just some AD/HD “rock like an autistic” rock and roll show but a sophisticated and intellectual way of “playing the game like it was made for”. Just play the game already. Just do it. The masters wont hinge on time wins but just show up, do what is necessary and win the night. The annoying “cat vs. mouse” chase wont develop yourself as a player nor mean much. You can develop as a player only in games which demand the best athlete qualities, such as patience, logic and freedom. If you play only blizt, you arent a chess player. Playing the 5 minute game do not make you a better player or let you accomplish much.

In the realm of the board, good tactics are to keep the initiative, check a lot and bulleye enemys pieces by constant pressure. Even if you are Black, play as if you had millions of tempos stored elsewhere. Keep the initiative and listen to your intuition. Use common sense over everything: the short- term based intuition may flack many times. Usually a good strategy is to centralize your rooks, have a pawn chain which is topped with a soldier in E4, E5, D4 or D5. Then deploy all of your lieutenants and break free from the C or F files with your pawns. Stuff your king with glossary and gloom and place him into a place which is safe, barricaded and closed. Favor to place him into opposite sides where you can launch a pawn storm from the Q or Kingside. Get a habit to check everytime you get an opportunity and offend your enemys queen as many threats from the light- lieutenants of your army. Grab some good material, exchange the crucial pieces and go for the victory.

Chapter Two: Pieces and technique

The mystery behind chess is not some higher power intellectual mega virtue rocket science, but rather some basic playing. You put your rooks to the c- and f- files and hope that they will inflict damage against the enemy army. The truth to pieces are that every chess piece can be the most powerful one in the board: The value of a piece is found at its status quo in the live set. For example you place your rooks to the c- and f- files and they'll start getting more value themselves, perhaps topping your queen. Bottom line: the value of the pieces are restrained in which platform they exist.

Knight centralized to the e5 outpost can be worth more than 10 points. You'll just have to arrange your pieces in a positional style manner to the platforms they'll inflict more hussle or damage. In the theory( your work before the club night at home) everything is possible, but in the live set everything is disposable. The best square for a pawn is it linked to several more, and a passed pawn or two passed pawns regarding how much space there exists can be more valuable than your queen. Bishops are best placed to the squares b2 and g2, so that means they're most of use when fianchettoed. You cant fianchetto both bishops if your king stays for long stuck in the center. Then you'll just have to develop the bishop usually to support your knight. King is best placed to the corner of the board, but can be brought back to daylight when the set is short on manpower. Your rooks belong to one of these six squares: b, c, d, f, e, g, though they are most of use as close to center as possible. The queen is the ripe prize hanging from the arches; when supported by a rook, its power is doubled. If supported by a bishop or knight also very dangerous and powerful.

Loads of truth is the acknowledgement that you dont need very much of natural talent, skill, knowledge, luck or understanding of the game to become a good chess player, because for knowing the right and neccessary fundamentals, you can score over 2000 in your lifetime. There is a system of its own to win by forced play and thematical threats. You'll need to learn it because 1) you can waste a lifetime by studying chess theory without ever getting nowhere, 2) there is a good shortcut that can lead you to the road of victory. Proceed to the Part Two in order to gain knoweldge of the actual, new, important and thorough( new moves and plans) chess theory shortcut that there exists. You can defeat an international master selo of 2500. Just know the ropes, important moves and the enlightening ideas; its all leading to the art, fun and adventure of chess.

Chapter Three: Win by force

Before we proceed to the Part Two, I'll introduce you to the systems, defenses and openings neccessary to start preparing for. First, with White, dont play 1.e4 because its a silly opening with few tactical and strategical options that'll lead nowhere. Instead I recommend two different first moves, 1. Nf3 and 1. D4. Both of those moves are rich in ideas and offer more breathing air than the strange, positional 1. c4 and the sad 1.e4. I'll introduce to you new openings and systems: Old Indian Attack is not highly respected, but as my research supports, it can become a deadly weapon in the hands of a willy player. Kings Indian Attack counts on creative playing and good base for straightforwarded attacks. 1. d4 youve got against you the knight on f6 or the symmetrical 1...d5. Both of these defenses are hard, but with our main idea( fianchetto both bishops, centralize rooks and proceed with pawn chains), it will get ripped apart eventually.

As Black you'll find more freedom and space that the mainstream theory would dare to give. Against 1. e4 I'll give you six very solid defenses. For example, in Owens defense you'll castle queenside and ambush your enemys king with sharp and offensive pawn storm. In French you'll deploy slowly and hesitate of playing c5 too soon and hesitate of castling. Then you'll find your king inside of a cottage and he cant be attacked.

Against 1.d4 you'll have Old Indian Defense, Benoni and symmetrical. In Benoni I'll laid out two solid plans for you: launch an attack on the queenside or barricade your king and attack on the kingside. Against c4 I'll recommend either 1. c5 or 1. e5. But 1. e5 depends of the material you are already familiar with. To the odd moves of 1. Nf3 or Bird, you can play for example any system you would like to.

I am sure that these theory that I am offering here is something you havent seen or heard before. Its brand new theory that will revolutionarize our chess that is before this book just a fallen star. Now I must take back a few words about the “awfulness of 1.e4”. This first move is not a bad move at all. Its not better or worse than any other opening( althought way better than “b4”, “b3” or “Nc3”), its just different. Not better or worse, simply just different. With the idea of capitalizing the advantage of a tempo up, e4 offers multiple, mostly tactical means of turreting the enemy army. Note that black's king on e8 and the square f7 are very weak, and usually just a rapid kingside pawnstorm will do the deeds. In fact even a grandmaster cant figure out a line to beat white or diminish the value of a tempo up. In fact, for amateurs, 1.e4 offers great options and, afterall, it actually teaches and preps the player about chess much more than the closed openings. All in all, if an amateur begins with 1.e4, even a grandmaster is nervous before such an aggressive opening. Its too bad that White's attacking options are limited in todays chess theory. I've always found Black's defenses much more fun and characteristic of chess than the dull “four main openers”, e4, d4, c4 and nf3.

I hope that this book is one of those which will open gates for much more inventive and experimental chess; my new theory will enrich your game, because even with Black one tempo down I will reveal some secret moves which will crush White down! So, play either White or Black, if you play my moves, you will get a huge advantage. And thats not all; your own move choices will double the effect!

Part Two: Winning with White and Black

Chapter Four: Winning with White

Here is an illustrative game of mine: Juvonen- Sven ½ – ½  ( Date 31.8. 2014) 1. e4 e5 2. Nc3 Nf6 3. Bc4 Bc5 4. Nge2 d6 5. d4 exd4 6. Nxd4 0-0 7. Bg5 Bxd4 8. Qxd4 Nc6 9. Qd2 Be6 10. Bxe6 fxe6 11. 0-0-0 Qd7 12. f4 a5 13. Bxf6 gxf6 14. g4 e5 15. h4 Nd4 16. g5 fxg5 17. fxg5 18. c6 g6 20. hxg6 Rxg6 21. Qh2 Qg7 22. Rdg1 Kf7 23. Rxg6 Qxd6 24. Qf2+ Ke6 25. Qe3 Kd7 26. Rh6 Qg8 27. Qh3+ Kc7 28. Rh7+ Kb6 29. Na4+ Ka6 30. Qf1+ b5

here are some variations for you to look at: Kings Indian Attack as White: 1. Nf3 d5 2. g3 Nc6 3. Bg2 e5 4. c4 dxc4 5. Qa4 cxd3 6. Nxe5 Bd7 7. Nxc6 Bxc6 8. Bxc6+ bxc6 9. Qxc6 Nd7 10. exd3 Be7 11. 0-0 0-0 12. Nc3 Nf6 13. Qf3 Rb8 14. Rb1 Re8 Bd2 1-0

Example 2: Catalan ( for White): 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 e6 3. g3 d5 4. Bg2 Be7 5. Qa4+ Qd7 6. Qb3 c6 7. Bg5 0-0 8. Nf3 a5 9. Nc3 Na6 10. Rb1 Rb7 11. Ne5 Qd8 12. 0-0 Nd7 13. Bf4 Nxd5 14. dxd5 Bd7 15. cxd5 cd5 16. a4 Nc5 17. Qc2 Qe8 18. b3 b5 19. axb5 Bxb5 20. Nxb5 Qxb5 21. e4 Rfc8 22. exd5 Nxb3 23. Qb2 exd5 24. e6 Rb7 25. exf7+ Kxf7 26. Qe5 Rd8 27. Rfd1 Rbd7 ½)

Example 3: Kings Indian Attack ( White): 1. Nf3 d5 2. b4 e6 3. a3 Nf6 4. Bb2 Be7 5. d3 0-0 6. Nbd2 a6 7. g3 Nc6 8. Bg2 Na7 9. 0-0 Bd7 10. e4 c6 11. e5 Ne8 12. d4 f6 ( Interesting Endgame) ½

Here's the Queen Pawn Game that I call “Lulu attack” for White: 1. d4 Nf6 2. Bf4 c5 3. d5 e6 4. h4 g6 5. Nc3 Bg7 6. e4 h6 7. Be2 0-0 8. g4 a6 9. g5 hxg5 10. Qd3 f5 11. Qh3 Nxg5 12. Bxg5 fxe4 13. Qh7+ Kf7 14. Qh4 Rh8 15. Qf4+ Bf6 16. Rxh8 Qxh8 17. Nxe4 Bf5 18. Bxf6 exf6 19. Nxd6+ Kg7 20. Nxf6 gxf6 21. Qc7 Kg6 22. Qxb7 Nd7 1-0 (White crushes Black's kingside fianchetto)

( White in  Sicilian Smith- Morra Dragon): 1 .e4 c5 2. d4 cxd4 3. c3 dxc3 4. Nxc3 Nc6 5. Bc4 d6 6. Nf3 Nf6 7. e5 Ng4 8.exd6 exd6 9. Ng5 Nh6 10. 0-0 Be7 11. Ne4 Nf5 12. Nd5 0-0 13. Nxe7 Ncxe7 14. g4 Nh4 15. Nxd6 Be6 16. Bxe6 fxe6. 17. Nxb7 Qxd1 18. Rxd1 Nh4 1-0 ( White is up two pawns).

( White in Vienna Game): 1. e4 e5 2. Nc3 Nf6 3. Nge2 d5 4. d4 Bb4 5. Bg5 Nc6 6. Bxf6 Qxf6 7. dxe5 Qxe5 8. Qxd5 Qxd5 9. exd5 Ne5 10. f3 Bd7 11. 0-0-0 0-0-0 12. a3 Be7 13. Nd4 Rhe8 14. Ndb5 Kb8 15. d6 cxd6 16. Nxd6 Bxd6 17. Rxd6 ( White is simply up a pawn 1-0)

Chapter Five: Winning with Black

Here are a few novelties regarding this subject: (Black in Center Counter:) 1. e4 d5 2. exd5 Qxd5 3. Nc3 Qa5. 4. d4 Bf5 5. Nf3 Nc6 6. Be2 0-0-0. 7. Be3 e5 8. 0-0 exd4 9. Nxd4 Nxd4 10. Bxd4 c5! 0-1.

Here are some examples of positional play: ( As Black in Queen Pawn Game) 1. d4 d5 2. Nf3 Bf5 3. Nc3 Nd7 4. Bf4 c5 5. e3 Qa5 6. Qd2 g6 7. Be2 Bg7 8. 0-0 Nf6 9. 0-0 Nf6 10. Nh4 Be6 11. Nf3 0-0 12. a3 Rbc8 13. Rab1 Rfd8 14. Rfe1 a6 15. xx a6 16. xx b5 17. xx b4 18. xx Ne4

Example as Black in Queen Pawn Game: 1. d4 d5 2. Nf3 g6 3. c4 c6 4. g3 Bg7 5. Bg2 Nf6 6. Nc3 0-0 7. 0-0 Re8 8. cxd5 cxd5 9. Bd2 Nbd7 10. Qb3 Nb6 11. Rc1 a6 12. Re1 Nc4 13. Bg5 b5 14. a4 Ne4! 15. Bf4 f5 ( White has no real chances ½)

Here are some chess novelties of mine that I want you to look through: ( Black, Accepted Queens Gambit) 1. d4 d5 2. c4 dxc4 3. e3 Nf6 4. Bxc4 Nd7 5. Nf3 c5 6. 0-0 g6 7. Nc3 Bg7 8. Bd2 0-0 9. Qe2 b6 10. Rfe1 Bb7 11. Rac1 Rac8 12. h3 Ne4 13. Nxe4 Bxe4 14. Ba6 Rb8 15. Ng5 Bc6 16. Bc3 e5! 17. Nf3 b5 18. d5 Bxd5 19. Bxb5 Bxa2 20. Ra1 Be6 21. Rxa7 Qb6 22. Ra5 e4! ( 0-1)

Scotch's Game as Black: 1.e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6 3. d4 d5 4. exd5 Qxd5 5. Nc3 Bb4 6. Bd2 Bxc3 7. Bxc3 e4 8. Ne5 Nxe5 9. dxe5 Qc6 10. Qd4 Bg4 11. h3 Be6 12. Be2 Ne7 13. 0-0 Nf5 14. Qd2 e3! 15. fxe3 Ng3 16. Rfe1 Bd5 17. Bf3 Bxf3 18. gxf3 Qxf3 19. Qg2 Qxg2 20. Kxg2 Ne4 21. Rad1 Rxc3 22. bxc3 0-0 23. Rd7 Rac8 24. Red1 Rfe8 25. Rd1d5 Kf8 ( White is pressuring, but Black's grade A pawn chains resemble equal chances ½)

French Defense Advance Variation ( Black): 1. e4 e6 2. d4 d5 3. e5 Nc6 4. c3 a6 5. Nf3 h5 6. Bd3 Nh6 7. 0-0 Be7 8. Bf4 Kf8 9. Qd2 Kg7 10. Bg5 Na7 11. b4 b6 12. Bxe7 Qxe7 13. Qe2 b5 14. a4 c6 15. Nbd2 Bb7 16. Nb3 Raf8 17. Nc5 Bc8 18. axb5 Nxb5 19. Qd2 Qa7 20. c4 dxc4 21. Bxc4 f6
22. exf6+ Rxf6 23. Ne5 Qb6 24. f4 Nf5! 25. Nb3 Rhd8 26. Nf3 Nfxd4 27. Nfxd4 Nxd4 28. Qf2 e5 29. Rad1 Rxf4 30. Qa2 Nxf4 31. Qa2 Nxb3+ 32. Kh1 Rxd1 33. Rxd1 Nd4 ( Winning now is a matter of technique) 0-1


Looking back now what might seem like a long journey steep hill is now over and you have the blueprint of a chess triumpher in your hands. The four short chapters had considered such player types such as: material, positional, creative and standard. I have given you the tools, the most important chess novelties and exercises for you to use. You cant criticize the external/internal conditions or someone else about your chess results. Whether you were too tired, too wired up, too risky- are just meaningless excuses. You lose a game because if you arent qualified enough. Its your fault where at you are in your playing. Its a skill to train, its a skill to internalize and its a skill to win live battles. You must listen to me because you can waste a lifetime by reading mainstream theory without getting anywhere. I taught you to fish.

I didnt guide you to route memorise or to understand some obscure positions; I taught you how to create new moves and plans based on your optimal style of play. Be it material, positional, creative or standard, you have now learned how to fish. Its no use to catch a fish for you that your family can have a dinner party. Its best to know by both theory and experience how to create new moves, ideas, plans and chess novelties. This book, Chess Code is written for you who are tired to study by route memorisation or internalizing complicated ideas; its written purely because players need to learn how to create new theory. I dont have any magic potion to raise your rating by 1000 points or to get you to the next level of understanding. The only thing you'll need to know about chess is how to lose. How to make questions( Why? How? What?), not answers. How to think, better, how to understand simple such things. How to create.

Bonus novelties:

Musta, E4;
Modern:1.e4- g6 2. d4 Lg7 3. Rc3 c5 4. d5 d6 5. Rf3 e3 6. Lb5+ Ld7 7. Ld3 exd5 8. exd5 De2 9. Le3 Rf6 10. 0-0 0-0 11. Te1 Dd8 12. Lf4 Re8 13. Dd2 A5 14. Tab1 Ra6 15. A3 Rc7 16. Lh6 b5(Rf6) 0-1

Valkea, Old Indian Attack: 1.Rf3 d5 2. d6 Rf6 3. Lf4 e6 4. Rd2 Lc5 5. e4 dxe4 6. dxe4 0-0 7. De2 a5 8. 0-0-0 b6 9.Rb3 De7 10. Rxc5 Dxc5 11. e5 La6 12. De3 Dxe3 13. Lxe3 Rd5 14. Ld2 Lxf1 Txf1 =


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